INSPIRATION - Botanic Illustrations

Vi è mai capitato un libo di botanica tra le mani?

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Prima che la fotografia ne decretasse il declino, l'illustrazione botanica aveva raggiunto livelli così eccelsi di qualità, precisione e verosimiglianza, che per molti esperti il disegno e l'acquerello sono in grado di rappresentare una pianta meglio di una qualsiasi fotografia.Per l'appunto, la figura di spicco nella storia degli illustratori botanici è Pierre-Joseph Redouté.Nato a Saint-Hubert (Ardenne belghe),è stato un pittore ed un botanico che divenne celebre per le sue pitture di fiori all'acquerello, e più particolarmente delle rose. Tanto che fu soprannominato "IL RAFFAELLO DEI FIORI".

   

 Opere illustrate di Pierre-Joseph Redouté.

In quel periodo la Francia fu al                 vertice nel genere della pittura botanica ed insieme a Redouté collaborarono altri grandi artisti poliedrici di cui vi accenno i nomi più noti: Pancrace Bessa, Pierre-Antoine Poiteau, Jacob van Huysum.

Segnalo anche la curiosa Alida Withoos (1659 -1730 Amsterdam), è stata una pittrice e illustratrice olandese del secolo d'oro. Alida fu istruita dal padre assieme agli altri figli. Anche i suoi fratelli erano attivi come disegnatori di fiori,uccelli,farfalle e altri animali del sottobosco, tanto che queste immagini erano regolarmente chiamate " Withoosjes".

Per terminare con il lavoro di Albrecht Durer - La grande zolla, che anticipa di quasi tre secoli la minuziosa descrizione della natura, figlia dell'Età dei lumi.

Opera di Albrecht Durer

 La grande zolla

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Qui sotto una stampa fotografica di ispirazione botanica tratta dalla collezione di Vivienne Westwood - Anglomania

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania skirt (see more cotton skirts)

FASHION DESIGN - Thakoon design

Remember this name.

The Thakoon collection is a true reflection of the highly diverse background of its designer, Thakoon Panichgul. Born in Thailand, raised in Omaha and now New York-based, Panichgul’s creations blend various distinct influences with dynamic ingenuity. His work is an examination of innovative construction. His collection imparts a feminine spirit, poised elegance and an underlying hint of playful wit.

Upon earning a business degree at Boston University, Panichgul moved to New York to begin his career in fashion—first in production, then merchandising—laying the foundation to what has become a very well rounded background in the business. Prior to launching his own label, Panichgul spent four years as a writer and editor for Harper’s Bazaar, where he chased after style news, traced trends and developed fashion stories. Eventually, he decided to try his hand at design, leading him to enroll at Parsons School of Design.

In September 2004, Thakoon presented his first ready-to-wear collection, quickly becoming one of fashion’s most celebrated talents to emerge from the New York scene. In 2006 Thakoon was one of 3 recipients of the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund and also has been nominated by the CFDA for the Swarovski Award for Best Emerging Womenswear Designer. He developed a cult following and created a unique niche, consistently showing collections of beautifully crafted, feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and intelligent.

Panichgul is fascinated by decorative ideas that spin out of constructing clothes. Where classic patterns have existed for decades, the nuances involved in finishing the garments are reexamined or altered in some way. The subtleties, he believes, make all the difference.
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PHOTOGRAPHY - Hollis B. Thornton

Artist Hollis Brown Thornton has taken these questions into serious consideration and uses his work as a way to explore life’s uncertainties. 

The main themes used include memory, reality and the unknown, almost every component of his work has a meaning attached to it. 

  
Thornton’s work ranges from acrylic paintings to marker drawings of wallpaper, VHS tapes, erased faces and outdated media, which all play a key role in ‘uniting the fleeting present to a lingering past.

FASHION DESIGN - Bio Fashion

BioCouture Fermenting bacteria spinning solid skins, plant stalks interlocking to form home-grown lace, human bone grown bangles: just a small selection of the ideas that are born when textile designers meet biologists, material scientists and physicists. Bridging the boundaries of science and fashion, a series of projects are hoping to revolutionise the textile industry, creating a cleaner future. On average for every kilogram of textiles, 10 kilos of chemicals are used which are extremely harmful to both our health and the environment – mainly affecting those in China, India and other countries where these clothes are produced.

 

"Bridging the boundaries of science and fashion, a series of projects are hoping to revolutionise the textile industry, creating a cleaner future"

The Textile Futures Research Centre at University of Arts London is a hive of activity investigating "how can more sustainable futures be enabled by textiles?". Carol Collette, researcher and course director of the MA Textile Futures course at Central Saint Martins, is an enthusiastic explorer of the potential of synthetic biology for cloth-making. Currently, she’s exploring a new concept for producing lace grown from plants – dubbed BioLace Collette’s research looks at apoptosis: the process in which cells are programmed to die for the benefit of the whole organism – the way gaps between toes are formed in a developing human. In plants, Collette hopes this could be a way of growing the lattice-like lace structure.

Suzanne Lee is also part of the Textile Futures Research Centre, where she has developed another textile growth technique which relies on bacteria in a sugary green tea solution that spin microfibrils of pure cellulose during fermentation, entitled BioCouture. These thin cellulose fibres form a dense skin layer on top of the liquid that can be harvested and dried.

Such collaborations look set to continue as a new initiative called The Textile Toolbox launches next week between MISTRA future fashion and the Textiles Environment Design at Chelsea Art School. The portal will provide an open innovation platform for designers and experts to engage with and foster new ideas for sustainable textiles and fashion, weaving paths for the future of fabrics.

FASHION DESIGN - Feit

 

Australian brand Feit make some exceptional hand-sewn footwear, taking an old method and making something pleasingly  modern. Founded in 2005, they offer a selection each month which, of course, are available on a small, limited run. This Toscano Low in Natural is a fine example of what the handmade method brings to a shoe. They seem like you’re run of the mill plain leather court sneaker but up close the raw stitching, the cut of the leather, the ridge running along the heel, the cork footbed…it all comes together to make something rather special.

Available in black and chocolate brown (all Goodyear constructed), this Naurale shade is a winner, even if it does have a touch of the Buffalo Bills about it. Feit also offer more sports and outdoors influenced styles, take a look over here for more.